Archive for February, 2010

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Photography Basics: Understanding Aperture

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Aperture and other technical photography basics can induce yawns in the most eager of budding shutterbugs, but once these basics are understood, the rest of photography easily comes into focus. Aperture, ISO and shutter speed are all important terms to know, whether you have a point-and-shoot or a professional camera. This article explains aperture and provides tips for using it to create better photographs so you’ll be proud to display them in a wall picture frame.

To better understand aperture, think about how the irises of your eyes get bigger and smaller to allow more or less light into the pupil. Like your irises, the camera’s lens diaphragm widens and narrows to let in more or less light. Thus, the aperture dictates the exposure (the darkness or brightness) of the photo. The aperture also has another important function which we’ll look at shortly.

“Aperture” refers to the size of this opening and is measured in F stops. The smaller the F stop, the wider the aperture. This is why it can be confusing. Actually the F stop numbers are ratios, which is why the bigger the F Stop number, the smaller the size of the aperture.

Besides controlling light, aperture controls depth of field. To better understand this, make a fist and hold it in front of your eye. Now slowly open your hand. See how the focus changes? Sure you can see more through the larger opening, but notice how when the opening in your fist was small, everything that you could see was equally in focus? Try it again and see how when you open your fist, the object closest to you will come into focus while objects further away will be fuzzy. This is how aperture determines depth of field, that is how much of a photograph is focused.

If you are shooting in Auto Focus (AF), the camera will attempt to focus on what it perceives to be the main subject of the photograph, but the results may not be what you want.

For this reason, many cameras have an Aperture Priority setting to help eliminate this problem. This allows you to set the aperture and then it automatically adjusts the shutter speed to compensate for the aperture. For example, if you set the aperture for a landscape, this narrows it, thus letting in less light. The camera would then automatically increase the amount of time the shutter stays open so that your photo isn’t underexposed or too dark. Aperture Priority isn’t exact, but this is how it usually works.

Now if you have an SLR and are shooting in manual mode, you can adjust the aperture and shutter speeds separately.

Most will have a camera with preset modes such as landscape, sports or portrait. When the mode is set to landscape, the aperture automatically narrows to bring everything into focus. At the same time, the shutter speed automatically slows down, leaving the shutter open longer to offset the smaller amount of light coming through the lens diaphragm.

When you switch to portrait mode and focus on someone in front of you with the landscape in the background, the camera will make your subject in focus and make them stand out from the background. And it will speed up the shutter speed so the photo isn’t overexposed by the extra light allowed in with the larger aperture.

Remember: the smaller the aperture, the greater the F stop number (because it represents a ratio not a whole number) and the greater the depth of field.

Understanding photo basics like aperture is super important for using manual settings or aperture priority but also helps those using preset modes as well. Here are three preset modes you should better understand:

  • Portrait: How much the background blurs when using this mode depends on your camera and the distance between your subject and background – a minimum of 10 feet works best. This mode can be used for any subject you want to bring into focus while taking the background out of focus.
  • Landscape:(called “Infinity” on some cameras): This is the mode depicted by the mountain peak or figure 8. You can use this for any picture where you want everything in focus like landscapes, cityscapes or a picture of your garden. And for shots of breathtaking vistas, try framing them in a panoramic picture frame to make your images really stand out.
  • Macro: This mode, depicted by the tulip, opens  the camera’s aperture extra wide so that you can take extreme closeups without the blur caused by not enough focus. Depending on your camera, you’ll be able to get anywhere within an inch to a foot of your subject. When preparing to take pictures outdoors of things like flowers, keep in mind that due to the slower shutter speed, even the tiniest movement of a petal can cause blur. Also remember to focus on the part of the subject that you want most in focus, whether it be a butterfly’s wing or a caterpillar’s eyes.

Just applying this knowledge can help you produce some beautiful photographs that you’ll be proud to display in a gallery picture frame on the wall.

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7 Tips For Creating Artistic Glamour Images

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Human body has always been a popular theme to depict in fine arts. But how does one make it look artistic rather than vulgar? We will now investigate a little about how a glamour artist can accomplish mastery on this delicate subject.

Nude portraits are not about our physical desires – they are all about art. They may be rather bold or provoking or sexual, yet they provoke thoughts rather than carnal excitement and raise emotions much subtler than plain loathing. This is all theory though – to hell with it, it’s high time to see how it is done in practice!

I have prepared 7 must-read tips & tricks for you to use and build up proficiency in matters of nude Glamour Photos - as well as motivate yourself properly.

  • It is important to feel the border between artistry and vulgarity: as a photographer, you need to pursue the former, not the latter. Make emphasis on body shapes and texture. Unless you know what you’re doing, refrain from depicting genitals - not many photographers know how to make them look appropriate on a nude glamour portrait. Rely on your artistic taste to decide what will look great and what should be avoided - it is a more reliable criterion than strict rules of glamour photography;
  • Don’t overload your model with trinkets and jewelry – when it comes to nude photography, human body must dominate the shot. To create an impression of glamour and elegance, you only need something pretty and sophisticated to complement the composition - but not to draw the viewer’s attention away from your model;
  • For practical purposes one should always avoid using so-called “hot lights” in a studio. Cold lights consume less electricity, create less heat and prove to be more flexible when it comes to studio lighting. In order to acquire more subtle light, use soft-boxes. In fact, softer lighting always contributes to the atmosphere of your nude portraits, so don’t disregard with this opportunity;
  • Watch out for the proportions: shooting from too high or too low might make your model look either a long-legged giraffe or a humpty-dumpty. You don’t want any of that, do you?
  • Get inspired. Different poses, lighting angles or backdrops and accessories will certainly deliver you several great variations on the same motif;
  • Can’t you forget that your camera has its limit of exposures and you have the limit of time? I mean it - to call your session successful, you need lots of material to look through. Even hardcore glamour photographers make some several thousand pictures in one studio session – so they could later pick really astounding images;
  • Establish a connection with your model. She is not a “main character” of your shots, but the one who plays a vital part in the process. She is not simply posing nude but co-creating. If your model feels uncomfortable, you won’t get anywhere – even if you’re Helmut Newton!

Shooting nude portraits is not easy - as well as being into Beauty Photography. Yet you can achieve a lot if you keep practicing and pushing on. As they say, with one step you can start a trip of thousand miles! In the case of glamour artists one flash is enough.

More On Glamour Photography

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Digital Camera Repair #2 Problem? Broken Lens

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Digital camera lens repair is as common as LCD repair, but it’s #2 on my list because it’s harder to repair a digital camera lens and there are so many different types of lens problems whereas a broken LCD is a broken LCD no matter how you look at it.

Basic Lens Care Tips:

- Do not leave the batteries in your camera in the camera bag. The power button can be pressed accidentally causing the lens to extend and get jammed because it cannot open properly inside the bag.
- Try not to drop the camera with the lens extended.
- Do not attempt to pull or twist the lens barrel if it’s stuck, it’s not going to fix it.

I would have to write a book to fully explain lens problems fully (hmm.. what a great idea!) so I will try and keep it simple and informative.

The lens is made up of many different parts… Let’s start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the lens elements. The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and usually has a special coating on it that you DO NOT want to clean off with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something similar. Nothing to worry about if it’s not there, it’s not a big deal. Try to always have a clean lens (how do finger prints get on the glass anyway??) and scratch free.

The inner-most lens element is responsible for the fine focus and resides directly in front of the CCD. When you press the shutter button half way down to focus, this part moves forwards and backwards till it’s in the correct position and your image is in focus. You won’t be messing with this part of the lens… unless you feel like removing the lens from the camera and then tearing down the lens to get at it’s ‘guts’. It’s kinda fun the first time, but uh… Good luck putting it back together properly. The tearing apart stuff is awesome, the putting it back together is a drag!

The lens has two small motors with their own gears that connect to the two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get ONE GRAIN of sand in these gears, they will jam and the lens will “error out” as we like to say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it’s not easy. Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 different gears that must be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already jammed, why not see how it works, right?

Then there is the CCD, “charge-coupled device” which translates the light that enters the lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.

There was a very large CCD recall for digital camera lens repair over the past few years that covers many manufacturers like Canon, Fuji and Nikon and not just Sony, but Sony provided the CCDs to many other manufacturers for their cameras so they do have a large amount of defective cameras on the list themselves. The defective CCD’s cause the camera to take solid black photos, or purple/pink “dripping paint” photos, or they have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If your camera does this, call the manufacturer and tell them you want a repair under the CCD recall no matter how old your camera is! IF it’s on the list, you might get your camera repaired for free.

Got spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and out? Usually there’s a spot of dirt on the CCD unit. You will need to remove the lens and then remove the CCD from the back of the lens and clean it off. Don’t lose the gasket that goes around the CCD, don’t get any other dirt inside the lens and don’t leave any fingerprints! Tall order I know, sorry, I’m demanding. =)

Let’s see… what else? Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle because the camera was dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section of the lens MUST be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for this section to apply, and you may follow this advice AT YOUR OWN RISK. The following repair trick works, but I am not responsible for your actions or anything you do to your camera.

Ok, it’s stuck at an angle and you want to try and repair your camera lens yourself. No problem.

Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the “Canon Zoom Lens…” metallic front section down flat on the counter. The round part of the lens barrel is what we want on the flat surface of the table. Now… here is the tricky part… press the angled part of the lens back into alignment by pushing down on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the LENS below the angled part to support it and press firmly but still gently (how do I do that? I don’t know.. you just do it) and the lens will either POP!! back into place and work perfectly or it won’t budge and no harm will be done, -OR- one of the “guide pins” that run inside a small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just destroyed the lens.

I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera repair is great… right?

Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, and possible solutions. You may buy a lens to repair your camera in several ways; the most expensive would be to call the manufacturer as they typically will charge $150 or more for the lens assembly.

Do a Google search for “digital camera repair” and you will see at #1 the only site that has affordable digital camera repair and DIY parts… Darntoothysam.com!

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Why Canvas Photo Prints and Canvas Art Printing?

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Why Canvas Photo Prints and Canvas Art Printing?

Digital cameras have recently become the norm in photography after many years in which film was the only photographic medium available. Now, most of us have embraced the new technology which made taking photographs much more cheaper and convenient. But this led to a decline in the number of photographs printed, meaning that most photographs will only be showed from computer screens.

However, it is still desirable to turn your favorite images into canvas prints so as to display them. You can make prints of all types of photographs. These canvas photo prints have the following benefits:

  1. Longevity: Because of the high quality raw materials we use, your canvas photo prints will have a lifetime of more than 75 years.

  2. Flexibility: All our frame are hand made and can be made to any size. Thus, you will have maximum flexibility when dealing with your wall space.

  3. Clearness: The glass we use is non-reflective, so your photograph will be viewed from any angle.

  4. Price: Canvas photo prints are of great value. Have your large photos printed cheaply, compared to similar size professional printing on photo paper.

  5. Shipping: Sending via post or couriers is easier than traditional framed photos, as canvas prints are lighter.

  6. Presentation: You can put your imagination on your photo canvas print. Choose any size or shape, create stunning montages, add text, present your photo canvas print as a set, even a triptych, or turn it into digital art. Let us help you present your canvas photo print the way you want.

  7. Elegance: Canvas photo prints are unique and they look great.

  8. Gifts: Give your friends and loved ones canvas photo prints of their favorite photographs.

    Visit Canvas Prints Online to get your free ebook and learn more 

No Add on Costs

We offer an all inclusive pricing system to turn you photo print to canvas and that includes freight. You will find that most other companies add in postage as an extra, but we are truly all inclusive. For comprehensive prices on canvas photo prints click CanvasPrintsOnline.com.au. To see what is actually included in turning your photo print to canvas also visit our website.

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Guaranteed Quality Canvas Photo Prints and Superior Service

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Life Time Guarantee on your Photo Print to Canvas

Your satisfaction is our goal. If you are not 100% happy with your canvas print, you can ask for a complete refund.

We can assure you that we use the best quality products available that ensure excellent colors and archival quality canvas photo prints. If your photos or images are unsuitable for printing, or if the size is incorrect, we will contact you to make you 100% sure that the final product will be as you expect it.

Quality Finish

Unlike the products of many other companies, our canvas prints are professionally finished with artists tape, wire, and hooks.

Quality U.V. Antifungal Protective Coating

  • Don’t worry about dust, water, or finger prints damaging your print.

  • Protected against fading (75 years), thanks to UV Protection.

  • Protection from abrasion, bumps, and scratches.

  • Better colors of the print. We offer gloss, satin (semi-gloss), or matte.

Quality Ink

Our prints are guaranteed to be fade resistant and produce excellent color reproduction for a life time. Thanks to using Epson Ultra-chrome pigment based ink.

Quality Canvas

  • We use high quality, matte finish, pH neutral (acid free) artist stretch canvas, with a base weight of 356 gsm.

  • It has 100+ years of image stability, as it is designed for long-term, fade resistant fine art or photo reproduction, as well as due to the UV pigment inks we use. The polyester/cotton blend canvas has a specifically designed coating which delivers superior color gamut and resolution, with the added bonus of being water resistant when printed with UV inks.

  • It produces great color reproduction, as it is strong like denim, water resistant, and bright white.

  • Less chance of sagging over time, as it is not 100% cotton.

  • While 100% cotton canvas is designed for artists to paint on, the poly/cotton canvas we use is manufactured to be ink receptive with a special emulsion designed to accept the latest high technology pigmented inks. Therefore, it is very suitable for canvas printing, and especially canvas photo prints.

Quality Framing

  • Kiln dried and finger jointed New Zealand regrowth timber bars.

  • In order to eliminate canvas cracking, we use bars made for inkjet printing with rounded edges.

  • Australian hardwood timber (Eucalypts such as Vic Ash or Tassie Oak) or non-regrowth Asian rainforest timber (Meranti) are not used for the stretcher bars.

  • We do not use large amounts of tannin or tannic acid, which may be damaging to archival (acid free) products, as other companies do.

  • All our stretcher bars are marked as originating from regrowth forests. That is because we want all our products to be environmental friendly, so we avoid using non regrowth forests which can be very damaging to our environment.

  • To provide more stable and warp-resistant frames, all our frames are finger jointed.

     

    Learn more at CanvasPrintsOnline.com.au 

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